I would like to suggest one of quality valve name Worcester Controls which come with standard for simple house use until performance use. Find more high quality valves also for use in any Industrials.

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Working With the Remodel Professionals
By Lynn Albro

When considering a home improvement remodel, you have to decide whether you are going to need the help of a professional: Architect, Interior Designer, General Contractor, Subcontractor. The following is a description of each of these professionals, their function, what they are capable of and how they can help you get the home of your dreams.

Architect.
Architects are state licensed professionals with a degree in architecture and are trained to create designs that are structurally sound, functional and aesthetically pleasing. If your home improvement ideas involve structural changes such as moving walls, windows, or doors, an architect should be consulted. They also know construction materials, can negotiate bids and even supervise the actual work. AIA architects have passed an industry specific exam and belong to the American Institute of Architects. Expect to be charged a flat fee or a percentage of the total square feet of your project (about $2.00 per square foot).

Interior Designers.
Even if you are working with an architect, you may wish to call on the services of an interior designer for the decorating and furnishing of rooms. These experts can offer fresh, innovative ideas and advice. Sometimes the interior designer has knowledge of materials and products not readily available in stores. You might also be interested in consulting with a lighting designer to specify fixtures and placement of lighting for your project and work with the contractor or installer to make your lighting scheme a reality. Other specialists include kitchen and bath designers, some are qualified and often informed about the latest trends in furnishings and appliances, but some may simply be there to sell you more goods. The decision depends on your scope: if your space needs only a minor face lift, you can call a kitchen or bath designer; but if your job is major, call in the architect and engineer. Expect to pay a flat fee or a percentage of the total cost of the goods purchased (usually 8 to 10%).

General Contractor.
General Contractors are state-licensed professionals that specialize in construction. The primary job of a contractor is to insure that all construction work complies with the local and national building codes, the necessary permits are pulled and arrange for inspections as the work progresses. The General Contractor may do all of the work themselves, or they may hire qualified subcontractors, order construction materials, and see that the job is completed according to contract. When choosing a contractor, get three bids from licensed contractors; give each one the same set of blue prints, or the exact scope of work and your own sketches for the desired remodeling project.

Include a detailed account of who will be responsible for what work. And of course, visit your State Contractors License Board’s website and make sure that the contractor has a current active license. General contractors will work their fee into the final bid. However, don’t make price your only criterion for selection, ask for references and, if possible visit completed projects, then make your decision based on quality of work, reliability, and customer satisfaction. Finally, when you have chosen a contractor, request current insurance certificates before you sign the contract and start the project.

Subcontractors.
If you choose to act as your own contractor, you will be responsible for permits, insurance and payroll taxes as well as direct supervision of all aspects of the construction. You will have to hire and supervise subcontractors for specialized jobs such as framing, wiring, plumbing, and drywall. Going this route requires a great deal of construction knowledge and a huge commitment of time for the day to day supervision of the project.

Lynn Albro
http://www.letsimprovehome.com
 

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To some of you, a bathroom may be a room of necessity, one you use when nature calls or when you – or your spouse – notice you haven’t showered for a few days. But for others, a bathroom is more than just a room you periodically visit: it is your kingdom and a place you tend to spend a lot of time, particularly after eating Mexican food.

Photo: alpha-bathrooms.co.uk

It is for the latter group that an improved bathroom may be particularly appealing. Some of you may know exactly how to go about this improvement (a telephone right by the toilet, really?), but others may be flush out of ideas. For those of you in this category, the following are five tips sure to make your bathroom showered with renovation.

Get New Cabinets: Installing new cabinets is a great way to make over your bathroom without having to deal with the intricacies of pipes and plumbing. New cabinets help restore your bathroom’s appeal, making it look fresh, stylish, and bright. You can chose from a long line of designs, going for a modern look or an antique look. Whatever you choose, new cabinets can help shelve your bathroom’s outdated appearance.

Replace Old Tile: Nothing makes a bathroom look worse than tile that is dirty, grimy, or coming up at the edges. Yet, this is bound to happen: tile isn’t forever. Instead of just keeping your tile till death do you part – or covering up the “bad” spots with several bathroom rugs – get it replaced with something new. You just might be floored by the results.

Alter the Lighting: It’s amazing the impact lighting can have on a room, particularly one the size of a bathroom. Changing the lighting in your bathroom can help accentuate certain areas, and deemphasize others. Most designers suggest that bathrooms have an overhead light capable of dimming, but adding lights to other areas – such as in the shower or over the mirror – can add a certain ambience. Who knows, those of you who spend a lot of time in the bathroom may even benefit from installing a reading light over the toilet.

Install New Countertops: Nothing lets your bathroom know you love it like installing new countertops. New countertops can take your bathroom from a plain looking room, to one filled with beauty. This is particularly true when the countertops are granite or marble. These countertops have to ability to accentuate a bathroom like nothing else can, making it rock solid in its appealing appearance.

Change the Colors: The color you choose to paint any room of your house has a huge impact: depending on what hue is chosen, your room may look smaller or bigger. For a bathroom, it’s a good idea to paint with light colors, such as blue or off-white. This plays on the element of water and helps make your bathroom a soothing, comfortable place. If painting isn’t enough, try adding a pattern or putting up light colored wallpaper. Doing something as simple as this may be all your bathroom needs to set a new tone.

There are a million things you can do to redecorate your bathroom. Whether you want to do something conservative, like install new faucets, or something outrageous, like putting up a dart board on the wall opposite the toilet, you have the power to be creative and make your bathroom a showerhead above the rest.

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This may sound out and right silly but the best home maintenance you can perform on your home is obvious to any home inspector. Ready for this. Keep it dry. That is right keep water out of the outside of the home and within the plumbing pipes on the inside and fix what breaks as soon as it breaks and odds are your home will be trouble free.

Photo: www.energystar.gov

One can live in a home for decades only fixing what breaks and have just about no problems at all. However should water start to get into the home damages will begin to accumulate at a very rapid rate. Letting water into your home is the biggest mistake you can make. Not curing the problem that is allowing the water into the home is a sure way to create a huge problem

As a home inspector I see it all the time. The owner does not replace the roofing when he or she should. Water stains start on the underside of the roof shingles, progress down the roof rafters where latent damages within the walls start, then the carpenter ants come to nest in the wet wood. Now we have a roof leak, insects, then mold and mildew in the walls followed by …. thus a small roof leak now cost thousands or tens of thousands to cure.

Next is the person who does not paint exterior wood surfaces. First to go are windows and exterior window trim, next is the siding, fascia and soffits. Water stains start where trim sections meet, progress down the walls where latent damages within the walls start, then the carpenter ants come to nest in the wet wood. Now we have a leak, insects, then mold and mildew in the walls followed by …. thus a small roof leak now cost thousands or tens of thousands to cure.

Michael Del Greco is President of Accurate Inspections, Inc., a home inspection business.

He has been a home inspector since 1993 and prior to that spent seven years as a construction project manager.
 

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Spring is coming, the traditional time for home maintenance checks, so how would you like to know the weak spots in your area? Whilst many home maintenance problems are universally familiar, some problems can be even more troublesome in certain areas. This was recently highlighted in a report by the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI).

 
Photo: www.ibiblio.org

Recently, the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) published a list of maintenance problems outlining the ones that they found peculiar to each different area in the United States. The problems become region-specific according to the climate as well as according to the geographic environment and local fauna.

For instance, if you are lucky enough to live in the warm climes of the Southeast of USA, you will find that the sun and the heat will mean that parts of your home will deteriorate much more quickly than in cooler climates.

Roofs in particular get the sun beating down on them all the time and the warranty on the roof you bought may not apply to the extremes of the south.

While roofs have a normal 30 year life, ASHI warns that in the warm south this could be only 15 years, due to sun and heat deterioration. Most warranties are based on a roof’s life expectancy in the average American climate. Termites can also cause problems in the Southeast; subterranean and flying dry rot termites are common in houses more than 20 years old, warns ASHI.

The Southwest also has problems; roofs are once again mentioned and also vinyl windows and vinyl siding may not last as long as normal. The Southwest region also carries a warning from the ASHI to beware of water build-up under the foundation which could cause pressure on the house structures.

Of course, living in a damper climate does not mean you get off scot free. For instance residents in the Northwest are warned of wetness in their basements and crawl spaces as well as their exterior flashing.

Another concern for this area is the fear that heavy rainfalls could encourage any land settlements if your home is built on a slope. The ASHI recommend a report from a geographical engineer to allay fears about this.

The possible problems on the Northeast could be partly due to the historical nature of many of the homes. According to the ASHI they are often found to be ‘under-framed’ and this could be due to the original age of the structures.

The ‘under sizing’ is caused either by the wooden beams being spaced too far apart or by using timbers that are considered to be undersized for today’s standards. They also put a warning out about chimneys, saying that condensation can form in them and cause early deterioration of the flue.

Midwest homes may have problems with their plumbing, due to the tradition of water heaters frequently serving as a furnace as well as a water heater. The only other problems that are listed are water intrusion in the basement and wood rot in the siding and trim. The Midwest gets off fairly lightly compared to the rest of the country.

Well as spring is on the way and you wondered how to get out there and enjoy the sunshine…. hopefully, you now know what to look for!

Coldwell Banker’s High Country Realty specializes in Blue Ridge Real Estate. Search CBHighCountry.com to view beautiful log and mountain homes in the Blue Ridge Georgia property market.
  

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Having a new bathroom tiled?
The following article is in response to all the people that are actually considering having new tiling for for the first time round and for those of you that want a decent job done.

Read on and you can spare yourself lots of anguish and desperation (and some money too).

Photo: shower-stalls.com

It is now quite often when I go to price a tiling job that I have to advise people on some problem on carrying out the work. The typical hotspots are:

• bath out of level
• fitted showers
• shower trays and baths with excessive gap between these and the walls
• lipped shower trays not set in
• shower unit/controls at the wrong height
• radiators, towel rail, basin already fitted, toilet pan height and servicing
• old tiles still in place after having a new suite installed

How can the above hotspots interfere with the tiling you may ask. Well, it goes like this:

“Bath out of level”

One of the first things that I do when starting a bathroom wall tile installation, is to put my long spirit level on and along the perimeter of the bath. What I found often is that the bath is badly out of level, sometimes dropping towards the plug hole and on fewer occasions dropping opposite to the plug hole. Of all of the baths I have seen to date I have not yet seen a bath that has not got a natural internal fall in order to drain the water, so I cannot see a valid reason for not having the top of the bath level. It must be said though, that occasionally, some baths are simply badly built. No much thought has been given for accommodating the tiles

If the tiles to be installed are a medium to large size and have no strong pattern, then is not a problem for the tiler. He/she would just need to trim the tiles accordingly to the fall but if the level is too much out you can have problem when installing a bath/shower screen onto the bath edge.

if on the other hand you are installing mosaic or tiles with lines or strong patterns, the tiling will look awful as even the smallest level difference along the bath length will be very noticeable. When dealing with mosaic, doing cuts means more time and money.

“Fitted shower”

I is important to have the tiles to go behind the unit as this can avoid water penetration in the wall/s. Some showers have the hot and cold pipes covered with a plate. On these type of shower units tiling must be done before the unit is fitted as the tile can be drilled neatly to accommodate the pipe work; if not, the tiles will need to be cut in a way that will have to show an unsightly finish. If the plumber is fitting a new shower unit ask him/her to allow for the pipe work to protrude from the wall more than it is needed, then to wait for the tiling to be done before final installation. I have had situations where the shower has been fitted, without even allowing for the tile thickness between the cover plates and the wall.

“Shower trays and baths with excessive gap”

When installing baths or trays make sure to have very little gap from them to the walls otherwise you might end up using either too much silicone or having to install a bath trim. I am not in favour of these bath/shower trims or tile beads as I have found the baths and trays can move downwards causing the trim to separate and capillary action allowing water to draw into the walls. If you find that the bath or tray is not fitting tight to the walls it is likely that it is due to the right angled wall not being square to the other or that the wall is bulging. It is standard practice to slightly bed in the bath/tray into the wall; just enough for the gap to close. This also helps “hold” the bath/tray in place. Many times you would only need to channel one wall only. This is when the internal corner of the wall is not square. Again, only set the tray into the wall until the gap closes. Care must be taken not to inset the bath too much as you might have problem with the taps distance to the wall, hence preventing clear access on opening and closing them. Also, pay attention to the shower tray as if you inset this too much, you might have problems later fitting the shower screen.

“Lipped shower trays not set in”Lipped showers are those trays that have an upstand along 2 or more sides.These trays are supposed to be containing the water within the tray and avoiding water leakage into the adjoining walls. In theory this is great but I have carried out a number of tiling repairs due to this type of tray. The reason why there has been some problem with this type of tray is because of poor plumbing installation. On a few occasions the tray was placed against the walls (not inset into the wall). On other occasions the fitter did not inset the tray enough into the walls. I have noticed that there usually is a considerable lateral movement once I step on the tray during tile installation. This causes the tray’s upright lip to move (from inside outwards) towards the tile and doing so, de-bonding the first row of tiles and in turn allowing water to penetrate in the wall, causing problems. The only way not to have any problem with this type of tray is to make sure that the tray is set in the wall more than the lateral movement allows. Care must be taken not to go too deep in the wall as the shower screen might not fit inside the tray.”Shower unit/controls at the wrong height”A common problem that can be avoided is the placing of the shower controls height onto the walls. As it is important for the user to have the controls at the right height one overlooked situation is the height of the tile border. If there is no border then it’s not a problem but if you are considering installing a tile border, then get the tiler to relay with the plumber as you don’t want to spoil the border being interrupted by the controls. If the border is thicker than the main tiles then you can have more problems with the control’s cover plates not seating flush, also if the border is thicker than the tiles the tiler will need to know where the shower/bath screen will be going exactly as that part of the border where the screen will cover must not be tiled or the screen won’t seat flush.”Radiators, towel rail, basin already fitted, toilet pan height and servicing”On situations where basin, towel rail radiators and toilet are fitted, this is where a lot of time will need to be spent as it (unless removed) will require to cut around these items (if possible). Here if planned in advance the tiling would need to be carried out BEFORE the final plumbing installation. Reality is that many plumbers want to get in and out as soon as possible not worrying about the tiling (after all, they are not doing it, are they!). If you are going to have the floor tiled then you MUST have the basin (pedestal), toilet pan and any surface mounted radiator OFF the floor and the plumbing already prepared for the new floor height. If the existing floor is made of wood, then there is a big chance that the floor will go up around 1″ – about 25 mm but can only be assessed during the estimate or quote.

“Old tiles still in place after having a new suite installed”This is another thing overlooked.You have planned your project for a long time, the workers get in to replace the old bathroom suite with the one you really wanted for a long time. They remove the first row of tiles abutting the old suite and install the new one. Job done.It is beyond belief that some people can do this. “The tiler can take the tiles off”.

It must be appreciated that removing tiles after a new bathroom suite has been installed is no easy task and the risk of damage to it can be considerable. Also, at times, some sections of walls may need to be replaced or repaired according to the surface type and adhesive strength. Make sure that the tiles ARE removed prior to the new installation.

The same applies to kitchen installations.

© Tile Master © 2008
http://www.tile-master.co.uk/html/tiling_help.html

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Pool filters are an important and necessary element of any pool’s circulatory system. The filter acts as a physical barrier between the water and pump system – literally filtering out garbage, leaves, and other debris from getting into the plumbing and causing plugs. The better the filter material – the smaller the debris it catches.

A pump pushes water from the pool into the filter, which uses one of three porous materials to cleanse the water of algae, dirt, and bacteria particles. The pump then circulates the filtered water back into the pool.

Each pool has different specifications that determine which combination of pump and filter is the most effective for every shape and volume. It’s worth it to have a professional do the math and ensure you are buying the right size pump and filter.

The three main methods of filtering are:

• Sand – The water is taken into a series of chambers bedded with sand. The top layer of sand traps the particles and the filtered water exits out the bottom of the sand layer. When the sand becomes clogged with debris it has filtered, pressure builds up and results in a loss of flow. The process to clear out the used sand is manually performed on a weekly basis. It is called “back flushing”. Simply put, run the filter in reverse and get rid of the waste water. Sand for pool filters is specially graded to catch particles in the 20-100 micron range. This is considered a bit low by industry standards.
• Cartridge – Cartridge filters are the low-maintenance and least expensive way filter method. One cartridge filter should last an entire pool season. Cartridges are made with the same material used to make sink filters. These filters have a notably larger filter area than their sand counterparts.Most cartridges begin at the 100-foot size, but the most popular size sold is in the 300-foot range. They also run at a lower pressure than sand filters, so there is less demand on the pump and no issue with flow volume.Cartridge filters are easily cleaned with the spray attachment of a garden hose. It’s as easy as pulling the filter out of its housing and spraying off the dirty part – usually only a couple of times per pool season.

  Particle-wise, the cartridge filter performs in the mid-range between sand and DE filters.

• Ditomaceous Earth (D.E.) – Uses a naturally occurring material to render pool water brilliantly sparkly. D.E. has a sand-like quality to it, but works much harder. D.E. achieves the best micron filtration rating -it cleans pool water the best by filtering even the smallest particles.D.E. appears to have more of a powder consistency than sand. Under a microscope, the powder appears to be a gathering of microscopic sponges. This is how the powder works as a filter – pool water is drawn through the powder and “cakes” onto the gridded support structure. D.E is actually composed of the microscopic skeletons of ancient, sub aquatic organisms. The inexpensive powder is available anywhere pool filters are sold.

All filters work well. Which filter you choose depends on what how you want it to perform. Sand is a great choice if you want an indestructible filter. Cartridge is ideal for low maintenance. DE will make your water the cleanest and make it sparkle.

Some pool experts say you can add a little DE powder to a sand or cartridge filter to bolster its ability to filter smaller particles. The ultimate pool filter, then, might be a cartridge filter with some DE added for sparkle.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for Web sites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and outdoor landscaping. Her background also includes teaching, gardening, and fashion. For more of her useful articles on pools, please visit CoolPoolDeals, supplier of high quality Pool Filters.
 

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If you want to improve or update your home, but aren’t ready to take on major demolitions or rebuilding projects, this article will show you six ways you can make a big impact with minimal effort.

1. Landscaping

The average resale return on any landscaping project is 100 percent. That means every dollar you put into your lawn will come back to you at sale time. If you’re not sure where to start, most garden centers either offer free consulting services or can refer you to a garden designer.

2. Paint

Inside or out, paint is the most cost-effective improvement you can make. For just a couple hours’ work and a few dollars a gallon, you can dramatically change the appearance of your home. Before any paint job, remember to wash the walls, patch up any holes or dents, tape the trim and lay down a tarp to protect the floors.

If you want to create the illusion of space, opt for softer and lighter colors like pastels and light, neutral tones. These will make a room seem larger and more open.

3. Organize Your Closets

If you’re wrestling for space, one of the simplest solutions is basic organization. By updating your closets, you can unearth an enormous amount of unused space and make your closets functional again.

Usually, prepackaged closet kits are going to be more economical than purchasing individual components. You can typically get a good closet organization system for less than a few hundred dollars.

4. Update Your Accessories

If you don’t have time to redo your flooring, buy a new couch and totally overhaul your living room, try simply updating your accessories. It’s amazing how quickly new rugs, light switches, pillows, ceiling fixtures and window furnishings can update a room. In the real estate business, this is called “staging” a room.

5. Bathroom Remodels

Because bathrooms are small, they’re not as huge of an undertaking as redoing a whole kitchen or refinishing a basement. While plumbing and wiring can get expensive, bathroom overhauls offer a great return on your investment.

For simple fixes, you can re-caulk a tub or have it re-glazed for less than $400. Meanwhile, tile fixes can be cheap if you find great tile on sale.

6. Update Your Lighting

New lighting and fixtures can cost anywhere from $100 to about $500 per room, and you can dramatically alter both the mood and the appearance of your décor along with the cost of your monthly electricity bill.

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